[Disclosure: We paid in full both times we went to Verdant. They didn’t know I was a blogger]
If you weren’t looking for it, you could almost walk right past Verdant Seafood Bar. Tucked down a little street that heads off the main drag in Falmouth down to the harbour, the unassuming door with a few steps down to it gives no hint as to the treasures inside.
Step through that door and you’ll find a small space, often packed with people. You’ll hear old school hip hop provided the backdrop to a soundtrack of excitable conversation. And you’ll find not only great beer and wine from Verdant’s own brewery up the road, but some of the best fish dishes we’ve had in Falmouth so far.
While we’ve only visited twice, I think it’s safe to say that both times we covered most of the menu of fish-focused small plates. Not a single one disappointed and in fact, it was hard to choose a favourite.
Oysters are the obvious choice and something we can rarely resist. Obviously they’re great, as are the fish tacos we have on a second visit. But it’s some of the more unusual dishes that have us (and tables around us) ooh’ing and aah’ing. Saused mackerel perched on a pile of celeriac remoulade which in turn sits on sourdough toast is a triumph both on both visits. The acid of the vinegar gives way to the freshest of fish and malted notes from the toast, while the crunchiness of the celeriac is balanced by the texture of the fish.
Crispy plaice – which is crispy monkfish on our second visit – is served in the middle of a pool of coconut curry which could easily be the full extent of the dish, except these guys take it to the next level with the addition of radish and carrot as well as peanuts. Extra crunch, extra pepperiness, and overall a dish so moreish there is a high probably that I will order it a third time next time we go.
The specials reel us in both times (yes that pun was absolutely intended). XO prawns with a tangy, spicy Nan Jing sauce on our first visit. Not one for people who don’t like dissecting their seafood – but if you’re squeamish about seafood then perhaps you shouldn’t be here.
The second time there’s a Gurnard crudo that’s an immediate reminder that while you don’t get a sea view from here, your dinner was swimming around just feet away probably not very long ago.
It’s perhaps predictable that a Midlander like me would be blown away by such fresh fish and seafood and so much of it. When you’ve spent the first 42 years of your life landlocked, you tend to get a bit over-excited. But it’s not only fish that these guys do well. Kimchi fritters sound like the simplest thing, but I’m yet to find a better way to enjoy Kimchi.
On top of that, there’s a Hispi cabbage dish that I am desperate to recreate, it’s slightly charred outside providing the perfect vehicle for a slightly lactic tahini yoghurt that’s sweetened up with golden raisins. It’s nearly my favourite non-fish dish, but has to share the title with a genius pile of King oyster mushrooms served with Jerusalem artichoke crisps and a Jammy soy egg. There’s miso in there too, making for a dish that’s earthy and savoury – adding a bit of ‘land’ to what is predominantly a meal that’s all about the sea.
On both occasions we don’t make it to dessert. Victims of our own over-ordering that I neither regret nor will refrain from on future visits.
Verdant seafood bar is everything I want from a restaurant. Great ingredients, dealt with with a confidence that allows their simplicity to shine without shying away from chucking in big, bold flavours and plenty of Asian influences. There’s good beer, good wine, nice people, good tunes. I’m not entirely sure what more you need.
