[Disclosure: Our stay at The Old Quay House was complimentary as part of a review for The Telegraph. As always, nobody gets to approve what I write here and all views are my own.]
Fowey’s got a special place in my heart. It was somewhere we visited on a post-Covid trip to Cornwall and despite the strange feelings we all experienced in that period of time, that trip in particular reminds me of how full of joy so many of us were at being out again and the promise of things improving.
The sun shone, there was a feeling of optimism in the air, and restaurants were open again. Which in Fowey is great, because it’s home to plenty of them. Admittedly, some from that period are sadly no longer there, though new ones have sprung up in their place.
They’re dotted through the town, tucked down the narrow streets. Some with views across the estuary, others higher up. All worth checking out.
And if you’re going to do that, you’ll most likely need somewhere to stay. You could do what we did and hike up the hill to a campsite or you could make life a little easier and stay slap bang in the centre.
Of course, there are tonnes of options of hotels in Fowey, including a few big ones slightly further out of the town. But if you want to be super central, you can’t get much more suitable than The Old Quay House.
With a relatively unassuming frontage on Fore Street, you could be forgiven for wandering past it without quite realising what lies behind. But take a look inside and through the bar area and restaurant, you’ll find yourself right on the water looking across the estuary, with a terrace that I’ll wager is one of the number one spots for a drink, meal and chat in Fowey.
Staying at The Old Quay House in Fowey
It’s not only the terrace at The Old Quay House that’s got a great view – but plenty of the rooms too. If you pick an estuary view you’ll be able to see across the water to Polruan, which itself is worth a visit while you’re in Fowey.
Rooms on the front will have less of a view, but tend to be slightly cheaper, so bear that in mind when booking.
The hotel really is the perfect base to explore Fowey without having to worry about driving. Right outside the front door you’re on Fore Street with its many shops, cafes, restaurants and galleries, and the town itself is fairly compact.
Slightly further out you’ll find Readymoney Cove and St Catherine’s Castle, or you can tackle some of the South West Coast Path for an adventure, or even hire a boat and spend some time on the water.
One thing to remember is the central location means there’s no parking at The Old Quay House so you’ll have to either pull up to drop your luggage off then park the car. Or just park and walk. It kind of depends how long you’re staying and how much luggage you take with you as to what might work best for you but it’s worth considering.
Inside The Old Quay House
The Old Quay House itself oozes history. The building dates back to the late 1800s when it was built as a sailor and seaman’s mission, providng shelter for local fishermen and mariners coming back from the high seas.
You’ll still see little nods to that rich heritage throughout the building, so keep your eyes open as you wander around.
Set over several floors (without a lift), it’s maybe not the ideal place for you if you struggle with stairs, but the advantage of the height means that when you book a room on a higher floor you will be blessed with rather magnificent views.
It probably feels a bit more cosy than some of the bigger, more sprawling hotels in Fowey, but that’s because it’s a different beast. This is about location, history and a boutique feel rather than a big spa or endless lounges and multiple restaurants.
That doesn’t mean it hasn’t got absolutely everything you need – from a cosy bar at the front to the restaurant behind, and obviously that terrace. Perfect for a casual drink after a day exploring before you tuck into dinner with a view.
Our room at The Old Quay House
As mentioned, you’ll have to decide whether you want to pay a bit more for an estuary view and one of the more premium rooms, but I’d suggest they’re worth it.
We stayed in a Quay View room, looking straight across the estuary towards Polruan – a view that pretty much negates the need for modern entertainment systems and flat screen TVs. Especially with the chance you might wake up and open the curtains to a cruise ship having arrived, which is exactly what happened to us.
The room’s spacious and light, with grey and blue decor that suits the seaside vibe perfectly.
It feels simple, but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t come with all the little touches you’d expect from a boutique hotel, from a Nespresso machine for your morning caffeine fix, robes, White Company toiletries and lots of charging points.
Plus useful touches like one of those heated bathroom mirrors, so you can actually see yourself rather than waiting 4 years for it to demist when you could be out enjoying Fowey, or having a cocktail downstairs in the bar or on the terrace.
Dinner at Samphire Restaurant
As mentioned, there’s no shortage of good restaurants in Fowey.
But it just so happens that one of those is downstairs in the Old Quay House.
Samphire is as unassuming as the hotel itself, and you could easily miss it while walking past, or ignore it in favour of something that isn’t a ‘hotel’ restaurant.
But having tried it, it more than stands up to the decent food and drink scene it sits in, serving up great food, good cocktails and offeirng brilliant service.
The menu champions Cornish ingredients but there are influences from further afield, including Asia, with some nice twists and unusual dishes on offer.
Given the terrace occupies the spot it does, it would have been rude not to enjoy its prime position with a Fowey Martini on the recommendation of restaurant manager Amy – delicious but dangerous – before moving inside to a slightly warmer setting, but still with those views over the water.
Tuna tataki was fresh, bold and bright, while chilli and lime squid tacos were a bit more crowd-pleasing but well-executed.
A steam main course was perfectly cooked, but it was the Cornish crab fettuccine that stuck in my mind. There’s a seafood pasta dish on pretty much every menu in Cornwall, and while you can’t beat fresh seafood, I find plenty of them quite unremarkable.
Not this one. Simple, for sure. Fresh crab meat. Pasta cooked properly. But somehow elevated far beyond your basic bowl – clean, fresh and tasty, not to mention worryingly moreish.
Again, one of Amy’s recommendations, and a very good one.
We finished with a pistachio tiramisu which again, quite frankly, knocked it out the park in terms of food, and reminded me that while dessert is often something I’m willing to skip, when it’s this good it really can make a meal.
Breakfast with a view
Breakfast continued the theme in terms of great food.
Clean, simple and not too-overcomplicated, but up there in terms of quality and brilliantly executed.
A full Cornish showcased quality ingredients, cooked well, while I was over the moon to see an omelette on the menu (not quite as common as you might think, my friend). Not just that, cooked brilliantly, packed with my choice of filling, and the perfect start to the day.
The food itself is a reason I’d head back to the Old Quay House in Fowey – with the bonus that if you’re happy to spend a bit of money you can stay right above the restaurant and not have to move far at all.
Should you stay at the Old Quay House in Fowey?
This hotel is all about location.
You’re right in the centre of Fowey, yet once you’re inside the hotel – either in your room or the restaurant – you’re tucked away from the bustle of Fore Street, with those beautiful views over the water.
Add in high end rooms with thoughtful touches, excellent service and food that’s worth staying in for, and you’ve got a pretty lovely option for a Cornish mini-break.
If you want a sprawling big hotel, somewhere with lifts and copious amounts of parking right outside the front door, and a big loud bustley bar, then maybe this isn’t for you.
But if your idea of a weekend in Cornwall involves wandering around one of its prettiest waterside towns, eating well, drinking something cold next to the estuary and waking up to boats drifting past your window, The Old Quay House delivers rather nicely.
And that terrace?
I’d go back for that alone.
