[Disclosure: I was given a £50 voucher towards a meal at Alioli for the purposes of this review. We paid the remainder of the bill]
There are few combinations that shout HOLIDAY more than garlic and oil, so when a restaurant opens down the road whose name basically means that, it’s always wise to go and take a look. Alioli is the latest addition to the dining scene in Touchwood, Solihull, and promises “the best in Spanish food and wine” inspired by the gypsy culture of Andalusia, from its art and music to the unmistakeable views of flamenco dancers depicted in the murals on the walls.
Given it’s slap bang in the middle of a shopping centre, Alioli does a good job at making you feel like you’ve been transported from Solihull to Spain. A baroque-style bar is just the opener of what is a beautifully-decorated interior, from vibrant wall paintings to the floral ceiling. Staff are young but what they appear to lack in experience on the odd occasion, more than make up for in enthusiasm and friendliness.
The menu is, as you’d expect, all about the tapas. There are smaller options and a selection of bigger plates, with a healthy proportion of veggie dishes alongside meat and fish – always good for wider audience appeal. There are at least three different alioli options, plus various nibbles, meaning it’s a pretty extensive selection to choose from.
The smaller choices are anything between £6 and £10, while larger options are between £10 and £17. Not cheap, but not break-the-bank pricey either. There’s also a ‘Tapas Experience’ option of ten pre-selected dishes for £50 which is pretty good value if you just want to try everything.
My pals and I visit on a Saturday lunchtime when Touchwood is heaving, leaving us grateful for the friendly welcome and calm atmosphere in Alioli. We’re shown to a booth next to one of the impressive flamenco-inspired murals that proves to be the perfect place to get started on a glass of wine and a selection of house breads that come served with alioli, though we feel the need to add to it with an extra portion of ‘black alioli’ flavoured with cuttlefish ink.
The bread’s a hit (when isn’t it) – especially some breadstick-style nuggets that prove addictive when submerged in the alioli before being eaten. The black alioli has a slightly unappetising grey hue but tastes pretty good, though I think I’d veer towards the paprika version instead next time.
It’s a mixed bag of dishes, with some hitting the spot and others needing some small tweaks to really garner high praise. Patatas bravas are a predictable choice but we can’t help ourselves and don’t regret it for one minute. The potatoes are crispy outside with a bit of fluffiness inside, and the tomato sauce is deep and full of flavour.
Leeks with a romesco sauce and toasted almond flakes is one of those examples of why we really should let veg shine more instead of always making it play the supporting role to meat or fish. The same goes for crispy sticks of aubergine drizzled in honey and topped with sesame seeds. A simple dish that shouts ‘holiday’ as much as the restaurant’s own name.
Ham croquetas are spheres of crispy coated, ham-laced bechamel that hits the spot as easily as the same dish from any other mainstream tapas chain, but a tortilla is a disappointment – under-seasoned and slightly too runny, even for a runny tortilla lover.
Our large plate choice of black rice looked the part, with a generous pile of squid perched on top alongside blobs of alioli, but like the tortilla the seasoning wasn’t quite right. Too much salt perhaps, making it more intimidating than appealing after a few mouthfuls, and leaving us unable to eat more than half.
Deep-fried cod with honey alioli was much better – a light, almost tempura-style batter not only looking the part but allowing the texture of the fish to remain the focus, while the sweet alioli was tempered by a smattering of paprika.
Despite the odd miss, we ate en0ugh to be unable to to tackle a dessert, as tempting as Spanish french toast with pedro ximenez was, and instead opted for coffee, enjoying the relaxed atmosphere that means you don’t get bustled out as soon as you’ve taken your last sip. If it had been an evening, I think we’d have had the joy of listening to some live music too, but that wasn’t on offer when we were there. A reason to return, perhaps?
Every dish may not have inspired superlatives, but I can’t help but feel that alioli has potential. Something a bit different, with a great look, eager staff and a relaxed atmosphere despite being in a notoriously busy location. A bit of tweaking to a few things would have instantly elevated them, and I have no doubt this is a place that given the chance, will settle into itself and be a popular choice for people looking for a lunch or dinner stop in Solihull.
[Disclosure: I was given a £50 voucher towards a meal at Alioli for the purposes of this review. We paid the remainder of the bill]
