[Disclosure: We were invited for a complimentary meal at St Petroc’s Bistro, Padstow for the purposes of this blog]
He’s a stalwart of the food scene and while some might scoff at Rick Stein, there’s no denying he must be doing something right to have the empire he’s got. Longevity isn’t easy in hospitality, yet here he still is. On our screens, across the country and all over Padstow, with all the mixed opinions that brings.
As a newcomer to Cornwall, I get the arguments around overtourism as much as anyone. But politics and serious discussions aside, Stein’s will always have a special place in my heart. The Seafood Restaurant was the first ‘posh’ meal Jamie and I ever forked out for many many moons ago. Wandering through muddy fields from our little tent to spend our carefully-saved cash on lobster, whole crab, and a glass of wine. Yes, I remember it all. And who knew there were days when we stuck to just a glass of wine…
Fast forward over a decade and there have been many trips to Padstow since thanks to its plethora of restaurants and a good portion of sentimentality on our parts.
The latest one was during the last flush of summer. As the days start to get shorter and the evenings a bit cooler, but you still want to cling to light fish dishes, bottles of rose and the gloriousness of summer. St Petroc’s Bistro sits back slightly from the harbour and has the kind of frontage that feels like you’re walking into a hug of a building.
I’ve been once before but it seems bigger than I remember, perhaps thanks a bit of a wander down various corridors to get to the area that’s dedicated to dog-friendly dining. Clearly a popular move given I think every single table when we visited had at least one furry-friend underneath it.
The menu – when we visited at least – was a crowd-pleasing collection of dishes championing fish obviously, but with plenty else on offer. The space is light and airy, with a kind of library slash conservatory feel and a relaxed feel that I think Stein’s tends to do quite well.
We started with Coombeshead sourdough which was predictably great, and hurrah for soft butter that’s easily spreadable and not straight out of the fridge. It’s the little things, right?
What’s missing from this blog is a picture of the tempura courgette flower with dipping sauce that was a highlight and could happily have formed my actual starter. If, that is, I hadn’t been unable to have the lamb sweetbreads with lemon and tarragon sauce because there weren’t any left and instead ended up with devilled eggs which were rather triumphant themselves.
The simplest of dishes but executed far better than the pictures I’ve seen of 70s starters. Decent eggs, a pop of anchovy on top, and a tang of curry to get the tastebuds going.
Never one to veer from his favourites, Jamie chose beef tartare which he declared just to his taste. Not too coarse, not too fine. The right level of tang from gherkins and anchovies, and more of that golden eggy goodness.
It’s a double-edged sword when starters are great – the bar is raise, the expectation is high, and your main course risks being a disappointment. But not so here. Crab linguine was the right kind of comfort for a late summer’s evening. Hearty and filling without being heavy and too rich. Plenty of crab, elevated thanks to garlic parsley and a kick of chilli.
Whole roasted bream for me. Served simply, cooked well. Sauce on the side. The kind of dish that hits just that bit better when you’re just a few steps from the sea. A big nod’s got to go out to side order of grilled hispi cabbage with olive oil and sea salt. Like so many dishes here, so simple. No messing, no elaborate elements. Just simple ingredients done well.
I guess that’s probably the secret to Stein’s success. Yes, there are more complex dishes on the menus at some of his restaurants. But that’s not really what you come here for. If you want elaborate dishes and multi-course extravaganzas, there are plenty of other places to try in Padstow, like Paul Ainsworth at No. 6 for starters.
If you want a relaxing place that’s been keeping people well fed for years, where you can eat decent food, and feel relaxed, and if you want to knock a Stein’s spot off your list, St Petroc’s Bistro ticks all the boxes.
