[Disclosure: I was invited to Casa Loco to try the tweaked menu and hear all about its latest chapter so our food was complimentary]
Casa Loco in Rugby is somewhat of an institution. Ask anyone who lives in the town about it and they’ll tell you about hearty portions, cocktails aplenty, and nights that often end with dancing and at least one person in the group sporting one of the Sombreros that lie around the place waiting to be taken advantage of.
Which explains, perhaps, why people got a little bit nervous when they heard rumours of new chefs and menu changes. Because Rugby without Casa Loco is, well, just not quite the same.
The good news is that while some stuff has changed, plenty has stayed the same – including owner Shirley who has steered the Casa Loco ship for a long old time and is going nowhere. But ask her what the new chapter for this much-loved restaurant means and she smiles: “It’s Casa but better. It’s like a new pair of your favourite, comfy slippers – just the same but with a new lease of life.”
That new lease of life, especially food wise, is thanks to new business partner Rory, who many Rugby locals might remember as having run the White Swan at Shawell. The pair are adamant that their partnership isn’t about changing Casa Loco and losing any of its heart and soul – including the hearty, Mexican food we’re all used to – but about elevating it and giving a bit of extra love to the dishes we know and love.
I’ve visited Casa Loco before, but am keen to see what’s changed. My latest visit was fairly early into the new partnership, and safe to say, Casa appears to have gone from strength to strength since, but the ambition was already clear to see, along with the smile on Shirley’s face at this new chapter for her restaurant.
The restaurant itself, sprawling across the top of Churchside Arcade, brings the same joy it always has when you walk in from the little staircase. A Mexican casita-style interior with vibrant decor and various spaces suited to cosy couple’s nights and family evenings, along with big old nights for groups and gangs – and yes, the Sombreros still there waiting to be worn.
The menu oozes familiarity still, with all the Mexican and Cajun classics that Casa has always been known for. But sprinkled among them you’ll find additions from Rory and a new kitchen team that is keen to show off their skills, adding some new ideas as well as giving some of the favourites a bit of a makeover.
On our visit we start with tacos that are fresh and full of character, a beef version rich and tender and the fish partner citrusy and light. Golden crab cakes have a chilli-infused kick, coupled with more citrus notes from the sauce they’re perched on inside a crab shell.
But it’s the fried chicken that wins my heart. The Pollo Loco dish might be slightly different at this point in terms of additions, but as long as the chicken itself is as simultaneously moist and crispy thanks to its perfectly-cooked coating, and as long as you get some of their buffalo sauce to dip it in, it will remain some of the best fried chicken I’ve had in recent years.
Having overdone it slightly on starters, we’re a bit full even before we hit our main course. I’ve seen somewhere that someone thinks the portion sizes have got smaller at Casa as part of this new chapter – when I went I can safely say that even if this is the case, they are still plenty big enough. Casa was always known for huge portions, but in this day and age perhaps it’s not bad thing that meals are more manageable and we’re not watching food be wasted. Quality over quantity and all that.
The main menu still has all the old faves, whether it’s sizzling fajitas you’re after, deep-fried Chimichanga, oozy Enchiladas or any of the big old Mexican or Cajun faves.
We go for the ‘Mad House Arroz’ – a paella-meets-Jambalaya style dish served in a big old pan filled with rice, peppers, mushrooms, onions and celery in a creamy white wine sauce. It’s slathered in melted cheese and studded with tortilla chips for scooping purposes.
We chosen Cajun chicken as the protein for ours, but you can opt for king prawns of extra veg if you wish. As daunting as the pan looks when it arrives, it’s actually far lighter and less stodgy than I imagined it might be, and full of flavour thanks to the sauce underneath that blanket of cheese. Yes, it’s big and bolshy, but not just in size – in flavour too.
Since my visit, Casa Loco are a few months in to their new format and judging by some of the dishes I see them share, and ideas like a Valentine’s tasting menu, I’d say the efforts to elevate their offering seem to be going well, and I’m excited to get back again this year to see how things have evolved.
Change is never easy, especially when somewhere’s done things a certain way for so long, but sometimes it’s necessary and can be a good thing when done right, which Shirley and Rory seem to be doing. It’s a partnership based on recognising that Casa Loco is much-loved by many, but that restaurants can’t stand still – especially in this climate.
It’s also a reminder that it’s possible to change things up without losing the essence of a place, which means that Casa 2.0 still brings big, hearty meals with a side order of fun, yet now does so with a bit more finesse, some new ideas, and an ambition to offer that little bit more to the experience. And what’s wrong with that?
Because while we all love our old favourite slippers, putting on that new pair and knowing you can enjoy them for a long old time to come feels pretty special too.
