[Disclosure: We were invited for a complimentary meal at The Clover Club for the purposes of this blog. We paid for our drinks]
There’s no shortage of places to eat and drink in Newquay – some great, some less so. But safe to say, there’s plenty of choice – much like the Cornwall food scene in general. Whether you go higher end for a Michelin starred meal at Ugly Butterfly, want lunch with a view at some of the spots on Fistral or overlooking one of Newquay’s other beaches (there are a few – part of its charm, for sure) or stick to pub grub at one of the many boozers, you won’t run out of options. But if you’re looking for somewhere mid-range, that’s casual yet feels a bit more bar-restaurant than basic, and is both family and dog-friendly yet still ‘nice’, you might want to add The Clover Club to your list of Newquay restaurants. Well, see what you think after you’ve soaked up this Clover Club Newquay review.
Sat in a hugely convenient spot on Bank Street (which is basically the main street through the middle of Newquay), the Clover Club looks at first glance like it could potentially be a chain. In fact for me it reminded me of one of the Lounges venues (which is no bad thing, given I think they’re pretty good), but it’s not. It’s an independent restaurant whose owner Charlie is simultaneously young, enthusiastic and ambitious but also boasts a fair bit of experience in hospitality and very clear ideas on what he’s trying to create here. A place that’s fun, accessible and appealing to the many different demographics that attract Newquay, yet somewhere where quality still counts, in its food, drinks and service.
First Impressions & Atmosphere
The first impressions fit with what Charlie tells me he’s tried to create. Nice design, a big bar reminding you that this is a place you can enjoy a boozy brunch, cocktail hour, or share a bottle of wine, as well as a more food-focused occasion. It’s relaxed and bridges the gap between bar and restaurant well, though on the week night we visit it definitely feels more restaurant. That said, there’s no stuffy silence here. Between us and our dogs, a big group on a celebration, and a family with baby in tow, plus several tables of couples, friends and other small groups, it seems to appeal to everyone, which is never a bad thing in this climate.
Food & Menu Highlights
The Clover Club describes itself as offering a ‘tapas style dining experience’. In the evening this means a broad menu offering a variety of snacks and small plates, covering meat, fish and veg, along with sides and puddings. Helpfully, it advises on how many might be a good idea to order, but our waitress is also confident enough to make her own recommendations on both amount to order as well as her favourites – always heartening as a sign that someone somewhere remembered it was a good idea to encourage their staff to get to know the menu and to feel empowered enough to guide guests.
Some say small plates are overdone these days, but I’m pretty partial to them. They’re a chance to try more than one dish, to share a dining experience by digging in together, and in theory I always feel they might mean I don’t over-eat, though realistically I’d have to refrain from over-ordering in order to do that – something I’m still working on. I think the menu has slightly changed since our visit, but the concept is the same, so I’ll tell you what we had but don’t necessarily expect to get exactly the same dishes, though you’ll get something similar I’d imagine, at least in style.
We start with some snacks. N’duja crispy olives are punchy, and in fact a bit too punchy for me in terms of their oiliness, but that’s down to the nature of the dish rather than any issues with execution. It’s the mound of hummus that is a bit more me, drizzled in smoky paprika oil and topped with rainbow seeds, with a puffy flatbread perfect for scooping up dollops of the nutty loveliness.
Jamie, meanwhile, is in love with the sourdough, mainly thanks to the chicken butter topped with crispy onions. Chicken butter seems to be everywhere these days, including just round the corner at Adam Handling’s Ugly Butterfly, but I don’t think anyone’s complaining to be honest. Why wouldn’t you love rich, creamy butter laced with chicken?
We try to go for a mixture of meat, fish and veg when it comes to the small plates. Prawn, halloumi and harissa skewers are a good-looking dish, the subtle flavours of the prawns and cheese elevated by the harissa to make for a tasty combination. They’re topped with chilli and what I think is a basil-infused pesto that adds a pop of flavour without overpowering it.
Cajun corn ribs are declared by Jamie as the best he’s tried. Not that we have them often, but on the occasions we’ve tried them before they’ve been distinctly underwhelming. Not so here, partly thanks to the cajun spicing, but more likely due to the addition of a herby greek yoghurt and some piquant pink pickled onions. There’s more red chilli that suits us perfectly and adds to what isn’t just tasty, but a good-looking dish on the plate.
Teriyaki steak strips with edamame beans and shiitake mushrooms is a simple dish in all the right ways. The steak is well seasoned, the beans add a pop of colour and the mushrooms a bit of earthiness. Where some of the other dishes are ‘pretty’, this is more straightforward, leaving you to enjoy the meat with little distraction.
For more meatiness without the meat, I’d recommend the wild mushrooms from the veg menu. Sliced thickly, and served on a hillock of butter bean puree then topped with crispy cavolo nero, it’s a meaty dish despite being vegetarian, full of savoury notes and a hearty, homely plate that contrasts perfectly with lighter options like the skewers or steak.
Our final small plate is a side, and somehow the one that is stuck in my head. Crispy crushed potatoes, arranged into a pile that just happens to involve dollops of black garlic mayo that’s offers sweetness as well as a rich savouriness. The whole lot is finished with grated parmesan bringing the salty umami kick that guarantees you absolutely can’t just have one mouthful. As sides go, it’s a hefty one, but worth every mouthful.
Cocktails & Drinks
Since we’re on a dinner date, we go for a bottle of wine, roaring through a rather nice bottle of Picpoul from a list that has plenty to offer. There are cocktails on offer, and you might want to book in for their bottomless brunch which guarantees plenty of everything for £37 a head, which isn’t bad.
Service & Experience
We’re lucky enough that Charlie is on hand to greet us when we arrive, but I don’t think this is particularly unusual. From The Clover Club’s social media to serving tables, he seems pretty hands-on. This place is clearly a passion project and somewhere he’s keen to make work, which means he’s there working the floor alongside his staff. That said, if he hadn’t been there on our visit, I think we’d have been in safe hands. Speedy service, knowledge of the menu and the all-important confidence to make recommendations, have a chat, and enjoy a bit of a giggle whilst still making sure a room full of people have all got what they want. Plus, anyone who can handle two big dogs without being phased in the slightest always gets a special place in my grateful little heart.
Prices & Value for Money
In a world where prices are soaring – and not because restaurants are profiteering but because of the sheer rising cost of everything it takes to run a hospitality venue – I think Clover Club is pretty reasonably priced. None of the snacks cost more than £10 and they’re pretty generous portions, especially the ones including bread. Then the small plates will set you back anywhere between £9 and £17, so depending on how many you order you can enjoy quite a reasonable evening here. It’s probably not the cheapest place in Newquay but I imagine it’s far from the most pricey, and I always feel that small plates give you a bit of a chance to enjoy what feels like a slap-up feast thanks to the ability to try several things, without the price tag of having to order multiple mains.
Final Verdict – Clover Club Newquay Review
For decent food, in a relaxing, welcoming setting that really doesn’t discriminate whether you’re a gang looking for a boozy bottomless brunch, a couple on a date, a family catching up, or a couple of mates looking for a good feed and a natter, The Clover Club is a pretty good shout. It’s affordable, the food is decent, there’s plenty of choice, and it seems to be run by people who care about what they’re offering. It’s a great example of a mid-range venue that offers crowd-pleasing food at reasonable prices, with good service to boot.
