[Disclosure: We were invited for a complimentary meal and overnight stay at The Maltsters Arms for the purposes of this blog]
Ordinarily, having to reverse what feels like several miles up a narrow lane with stone walls and undergrowth either side in order to allow a car to come the other way would be a bit annoying. Having to do it twice, as on this occasion, would be a total day ruiner.
But somehow doing it en route to The Maltsters Arms at Tuckenhay actually does the opposite – cementing my hopeful prediction that 24 hours here will be the complete escape I’m looking for. It’s got to be, surely, given how tucked away it seems to be. There’s nothing quite like a) feeling like you’re disappearing into the middle of nowhere for a relaxing break, and b) having to put a bit of effort in to get to said place, making it all the sweeter when you get there.
Location & First Impressions
Sweet it absolutely is, as we emerge from the narrow lane of doom to the idyllic waterside pub that sits right on Bow Creek, just off the River Dart, in the hamlet of Tuckenhay, which despite its ‘miles from anywhere’ feel is actually only a stone’s throw from Totnes and Dartmouth. Tuckenhay itself is packed with history thanks to the area’s industrial background but so too is the Maltsters.
The 18th Century inn, which was once owned by TV chef Keith Floyd himself, and after being reopened in 2025 by owners Matt Clark and Erin Allgrove, has carved out its own reputation as both a place to stay and a place to eat. In a relatively short time, it’s already been featured in The Times ‘Best 50 Places to Eat Al Fresco’ and described by The Independent as ‘One of Britain’s Best Riverside Locations’.
Within minutes, it’s not hard to see why. Inside the front door is a cosy bar area and restaurant tables to tuck into their food, which itself has also won an AA Rosette for food (as well as four AA Stars for its accommodation). And it’s from that restaurant that you get the first glimpse of what makes The Maltsters that bit special – the view out onto the river. The perfect spot to watch the world go by.
When we visit it’s winter so the only traffic on the water are a few ducks, but no doubt warmer weather will see them sharing it with boats, canoes, and more. Especially given the fact that if you don’t want to tackle those narrow lanes to get to The Maltsters, you’re welcome to actually arrive by boat too.
Thanks to its proximity to the river – we’re taking literally a few feet – that view is everywhere. From the restaurant tables, the covered terrace outside, and the riverside seating right next to the water. And, of course, from the rooms themselves.
The Rooms: What It’s Really Like to Stay
The Maltsters has six double en-suite rooms, including dog-friendly options. Ours is Nightingale – a gorgeous dual aspect room that includes a view out onto the quay and creek, with plenty of space for us and the pooches. The bed is enormous, and super comfortable, while there’s a seating area too where I spend a fair amount of time lounging around in between eating marvellous food and mooching around Tuckenhay.
It’s well appointed, with free wifi, tea and coffee facilities, a TV and an en-suite bathroom with both standalone Victorian bath and separate shower. It’s the kind of room you can quite happily disappear into for hours if it’s R&R you’re after, as well as being the perfect base in between exploring the area.
It’s also easy to access directly into the car park, which is always useful when you’re a dog owner and don’t fancy traipsing through public spaces or past endless other rooms on those early morning and late night trips outside.
The Setting: Riverside Views & Atmosphere
We spend the afternoon enjoying the idyllic location that The Maltsters sits in in the South Hams. If we were staying longer we might have ventured into Totnes or Dartmouth, but we choose to leave the car well and truly parked and hide in our calm little hamlet.
The quay itself is the perfect place to enjoy a drink overlooking the water, as is the Quarterdeck which is covered and handy for the cooler, damper months. An easy walk is Tuckenhay Mill, once a paper mill and now a set of self-catering cottages with various leisure facilities. There are nice dog walks in the area, and in the other direction from The Maltsters is Bowbridge, another tiny hamlet and home to the Waterman’s Arms which is another lovely pub.
In short, there’s plenty to do nearby but the riverside views and general relaxing ambience of the Maltsters makes it the kind of place you can simply just ‘be’ in and enjoy a break from reality.
The Food & Drink
While the setting is glorious, it’s the food and drink that makes The Maltsters worth venturing in to the middle of nowhere for. A brief look at the menu hints at something that’s far beyond a basic pub menu, which is no surprise given that head chef Dan Morris was formerly in the same role at The Elephant in Torquay – somewhere that knocked our socks off a few years ago. With him in the kitchen it’s perhaps unsurprising that the Maltsters has gained two AA Rosettes for culinary excellence.
It’s a restaurant menu that champions seasonal produce, but is elevated beyond the ordinary. Before we’ve eaten sat down one of the specials has caught Jamie’s eye, and his lamb rump has him nodding furiously with each mouthful. It’s served pink, with sticky slow-cooked tropea onion topped with gorgonzola and hazelnuts to add texture. There’s a beurre noisette that you might think would make the whole thing overkill on indulgence, but the addition of balsamic balances it. It’s hearty and indulgent, yet with touches that remind us that this is an ambitious chef in the kitchen.
Before that, we’d fallen victim to our regular nemesis – the ‘nibbles’ section of a menu. Pre-starter snacks that can’t be ignored, yet mean we often manage to turn two courses into three without even hitting the dessert menu. This time it’s the Nduja fritters with herb mayonnaise that catch our eye. Nuggets of loveliness perched on a dollop of herb mayonnaise. They’re fried just right, with a crispy coating that gives way to that smoky, creamy inside.
Parmesan truffle arancini are arguably a bit similar but Jamie’s love affair with both truffle and parmesan means they’re another ‘must-have’. Again., well executed, with a rich black garlic aioli adding a sweetness to balance out the umami of the truffle and the cheese.
We add one dish from the start menu since we’ve already got over-excited, but the market fish is a worthy addition. A fillet of John Dory, lightly fried and served with a pool of butter curry. It’s fragrant and well-spiced, without overpowering the fish.
While Jamie moves on to his lamb, I opt for another meaty dish. Twelve-hour based short rib, tender to the touch, and served with a sweet, rich ketchup made from coffee and date molasses. As with the lamb dish, it doesn’t stop there and there are extra elements thrown in.
I’m concerned at first that there might be just too many things on the plate but somehow it works. It works with the lamb, and it also works with my beef, which has grated manchego on top that brings savoury notes to what could be a sweet dish thanks to the ketchup, while pickled guindilla pepper brings acidity.
It’s a superb meal and of course we’re too full for dessert, but not for peeping into the ‘Keith Floyd Room’ – a little homage to the former owner and TV chef that reminds you that this is a place that has been food focused for some time, and that focus isn’t going anywhere.
Breakfast is another lovely affair, with the low-lit cosiness replaced by daylight and those views over the creek. There’s a compact buffet section and a menu that includes the everyday options (done well of course) along with additions like an ‘Avocado Tartine’ (think avocado toast with poached eggs but the addition of pops of flavour from another one of the those pickled peppers and some radish) as well as kippers and various Benedicts.
It’s fresh, quality food, cooked well, making breakfast another un-rushed, enjoyable part of the experience.
Pros & Cons
A stay and dinner at The Malsters in Tuckenhay has many a pro to consider. The location is idyllic, the rooms are well appointed and relaxing, and the restaurant and bar areas, along with the outdoor areas, are all expansive and well thought out. It’s actually pretty well located if you want to get out and about in the local area, and Andy the GM and his staff are hugely accommodating and welcoming.
Cons are hard to find. If you struggle with narrow lanes, you might decide the prize at the end isn’t worth the effort to get there, and the mobile signal disappears in places. I imagine it can also possibly get a bit packed in summer. But choose your time right and you’ll have a relaxing hideaway from the world.
It’s worth noting that this is a traditional building, packed with history, so if you’re after a sleek, modern boutique hotel, you might think the odd (tiny) element is dated, but for me this is all part of the character and story behind this place. And regardless, it’s clean, well kept, and with everything you need.
Final Verdict
Our trip to The Maltsters came at a time when we absolutely needed to run away from the world, and this is exactly what we did. For me, being by the water is worth its weight in gold, and the fact you can do this and also enjoy restaurant standard food, as well as a chilled pub atmosphere with a beer is the perfect storm. I’d go back in a heartbeat.
