[Disclosure: I was invited to a press dinner as part of the soft launch of MOR by Tom Sellers]
When it comes to good restaurants, Cornwall isn’t exactly short of them, but there is always space for more. In a climate where we hear the doom and gloom of hospitality closures far more frequently than we’d like to, any opening comes with slightly more excitement than maybe it would in easier times. And safe to say, excitement is swirling around MOR by Tom Sellers.
It’s a big deal for various reasons, from the chef team behind it to the fact it’s Tom Sellers’ first restaurant outside London, and the location itself – which we can all agree is one of the more impressive in the county, if not country.
I was lucky enough to dine at MOR ahead of its official opening on July 20th, so here’s everything you need to know.
Why Everyone’s Talking About MOR
I’m not sure where to start. As mentioned, the buzz around MOR is the combination of a few ingredients. Firstly, it’s at the Carbis Bay Estate near St Ives which a pretty blimin beautiful spot, with the restaurant perfectly placed for views across the bay to the sparkling blue water.
The Carbis Bay Estate is no stranger to big names, from hosting the G7 summit to previously being home to Adam Handling’s Ugly Butterfly before it moved to Newquay.
Add to that the names behind MOR itself (more on that later), and the general prospect of a new opening at a time when we seem to be hearing about closure after closure, and there’s been a palpable excitement around this opening.
Meet the Team Behind MOR
MOR is the latest venture from two Michelin-starred chef Tom Sellers. Apparently he did a pop-up in Cornwall back in 2019 but now he’s back permanently.
It’s not just him though, the whole team has a pretty impressive calibre, with chefs including . The Tom Anglesea as well as Corrin Harrison, who was formerly of Ynyshir and Gwen in Wales.
Front of house is just as impressive, with general manager Katie Russell and head of wine Tara Ozols making sure you’re served up a flawless experience to match the food and the food.
A Menu Rooted in Cornwall
It’s safe to say, this is my kind of food. No fussy tasting menus. No endurance test in the form of 18 courses that will have you eyelids drooping before you’ve got to the best bits. This is food that suits its surroundings – immersing you in the scenery around you and bringing what I can only describe as that joyful holiday feeling when someone puts a whole fish down in front of you as you feel the sun on your face and dive into a crisp glass of something nice. Yes, that kind of feeling.
MOR’s name itself comes from the Cornish word for sea, and the menu is a huge homage to the bounty that sits underneath those glorious views you soak up from the restaurant windows.
The a la carte menu revolves around a raw bar and charcoal grill anchor the à la carte menu, with plenty of Asian influences thrown in to bring the freshest of fish to life on a plate without overpowering the joyful simplicity of top quality, freshly-caught ingredients.
Mains are about showstopping huge fish and pieces of meat. You’ll be able to choose fish from the MOR counter, where the morning’s catch is on display, then cooked over fire and served with salad, potatoes and house condiments. There’s meat on offer too, should you fancy a rather large hunk of flesh cooked over charcoal, and you can finish your meal with desserts that are both indulgent yet delicate.
The drinks programme is aimed at celebrating local producers as much as the food, with the same inspiration from the sea in the cocktail list, while the wine list is designed to complement the restaurant’s focus on fish. It also features a selection of sake that highlights some of the Japanese influences on the menu.
Designed for Long Lunches and Sunset Suppers
With floor to ceiling windows providing the best decor Mother Nature could offer in the form of sand below, bright blue sea the neverending horizons stretching as far as you can see, you could almost get away without doing much to the interior, but obviously they haven’t.
The aim, apparently, was to create an unforgettable dining experience at the point where land and sea meet, and that meeting point has been carefully designed and decorated to bring the natural surroundings of MOR inside, without losing that special feeling of a good restaurant.
There’s tonnes of natural stone, timber and sheer fabrics to create that breezy, holiday feel, and one of the most beautiful parts of this experience is the changing light as day shifts to night.
Day time and early evening is about bright blues and sandy shades – both inside and out – that shift into moodier shades as the sun goes down. It’s somewhere you want to linger to experience both, in the same way everyone wants that joyous moment of seeing a beach change as the sun goes down.
What to Expect When MOR Opens
My visit’s on a bright sunny evening, with people still enjoying the beach below in the early evening sun. There’s a hubbub to the whole of Carbis Bay and while MOR may be the new, exciting, prestigious opening, there’s a relaxed feeling to it both in the bar and restaurant area.
The style of food just emphasises that laid-back atmosphere. Instead of individual starters, we dive into sashimi plates of delicate slabs of fresh dayboat fish, prepared simply and served as you’d expect with soy, wasabi and pickled ginger. It’s simple but somehow perfect for the setting. As is a tuna tartare that we all dig into, and a fish carpaccio that is as delicate as delicate can be.
A Bang Band Squid Salad is fresh and light, the chilli and lime adding a kick and little chunks of crispy pig’s ears – think crackling – adding a crisp crunch. But it’s the shell-baked ‘One Breath’ Scallop that wins us all. The scallop itself is simultaneously delicate yet meaty, cooked perfectly, and tucked under a blanket of buttery foam that hides underneath a deeply umami chilli paste.
The flavour is superlative, but it’s the story behind it that’s made more magical. Caught by free-diver Jamie from Greenstraight Scallops, it’s the romance of someone having literally held their breath to dive down and bring this little treasure to the surface, storing it in floating baskets and in seaweed to ensure it’s as fresh as it can possibly be. Maybe it’s my imagination, but I’m fairly sure it shows in the quality of the seafood I’ve just popped in my mouth.
The convivial feeling continues in the mains, which are the moment I truly feel on ‘holiday’ from my real life. A huge plaice, bigger than I’ve ever seen, cooked over fire to give that barbecue char. The same with a sea bass. And a rather epic-looking Philip Warren T-bone. One for a special occasion, given the price tag, but a commitment you will probably want to make having seen it.
They’re presented whole on the table, ready for the bravest, most confident person to dig into and serve up while everyone else looks on excitedly. Accompaniments are simple – garden salad in one bowl, potatoes in another. Fresh, light and summery.
And then there are the condiments. My Achilles Heel always, but these are a step beyond your average butters and sauces. A selection of six, all crafted in house, some Asian-inspired inspired, others more classic. All with flavours designed to complement the fish, from Nori to citrus, garlic, ginger, and their house hot sauce that will have you seriously considering popping the bottle in your handbag. (Don’t though, nobody likes a thief).
It’s food that lets the produce and ingredients do the talking. It’s cooked perfectly, presented beautifully and predictably tastes great – because if you don’t mess too much with quality, fresh fish and meat then really it should taste great. It’s easy and simple, yet also special.
We linger over these dishes, not wanted to let the plates be taken away without it having looked like we’ve made a good dent. Which is hard, given their size. But on we soldier, chatting, watching the colours outside gradually change from bright sunshine to a golden glow as the evening moves on.
We’re full but not stuffed. That’s the beauty of this kind of menu. And so we can tackle the desserts with almost the same fervour as we did earlier courses. A good job really, given their quality.
A refreshing granita, popping with lime leaf and sake. Soft serve studded with crispy Jasmine rice and cherries. Eaten best when scooped up with the warm honey and brown sugar Madeleines that appear alongside it.
And then there’s the date tart. Inspired by Thomas Keller’s favourite lemon sabayon tart, it’s the lightest tart I’ve ever tried, thanks to the combination of foam and custard. Apparently they’re only making two a day, so it’s one to have your eye on. Because trust me, you won’t want to miss this kind of precision when it comes to pastry.
It’s a meal that hits all the spots. Food that’s from Cornwall, that suits Cornwall, and somehow matches fine dining with the relaxed rustic-ness that makes people come down in their droves.
Is MOR Worth Adding to Your Cornwall Hit List?
I’d say yes. One for a special occasion maybe? Or one where you just commit to enjoying some of the best restaurant views in the UK with food that somehow seems to match those views.
MOR is open now – from 20th July – serving lunch and dinner seven days per week. I’d say give it a go, because you’ll find it hard to find an experience like this anywhere else.
